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Common vegetable pests and how to identify them

Many vegetable pests are common across the world, while some belong to particular regions. This guide helps you identify what is eating your crop, tell minor damage from serious damage, and find the detailed page for each pest, with prevention advice that works against many of them.

Most vegetable damage comes from a small group of pests. Some, like aphids, slugs and cabbage caterpillars, occur in many regions. Others are regional, so a gardener in North America may deal with Colorado potato beetle, squash vine borer and tomato hornworm that a gardener in Europe or Africa will not see. This hub names the pests you are most likely to meet, groups them by how they feed, and links to a full page on each.

Start with the quick table. Match what you can see to the likely pest, open its page to confirm the identification against photographs and similar pests, then decide whether you need to act. A strong plant tolerates more damage than a weak one, and some feeding is minor. Where a pest is a notifiable quarantine species in your country, the page says so, and reporting it comes first.

What is eating my vegetables?

Match what you can see to the likely pest, then open its guide to confirm it.

What you are seeingLikely cause
Dense clusters of small soft-bodied insects on shoot tips, with sticky leaves belowAphids
Clouds of tiny white flies rising off a brassica when you brush against itWhitefly
A fine peppering of small round holes across seedling leavesFlea beetles
Brassica leaves eaten to lace, with green caterpillars on the undersidesCaterpillars
Fat yellow-and-black striped beetles and red grubs stripping potato foliageColorado potato beetle
Ragged holes in soft leaves and silvery slime trails on the soilSlugs and snails
Rusty-brown tunnels running just under the skin of carrotsCarrot fly
Newly planted brassicas wilting and pulling up with no rootsCabbage root fly
A squash or courgette wilting suddenly, with sawdust-like frass at a hole in the stemSquash vine borer
Stunted plants whose lifted roots carry rows of knotted gallsRoot-knot nematodes

Recognise six common pests

These are common pests on vegetable crops. Open any one for more photographs and checks.

Sap-sucking pests

These insects push a needle-like mouthpart into the leaf or stem and drink sap. You may notice sticky honeydew, sooty mould or ants before you notice the insects. Sap-sucking can weaken growth and spread plant viruses from one crop to the next, but a light colony on an established plant often washes off with water or declines once predators find it.

Beetles and bugs

Beetles and true bugs chew plant tissue or feed on sap, and several can destroy a crop rather than only mark it. Some occur widely; several belong to the Americas and are not expected elsewhere. If a species is a notifiable quarantine pest in your country, report a sighting before treating it.

Caterpillars and grubs

Caterpillars are the larvae of moths and butterflies. They eat leaves, bore into cobs and fruit, or cut seedlings off at soil level. Frass, the dark crumbly droppings they leave, is often the first sign. Many feed at night or from the leaf underside and are hard to find by day. Count the fleshy prolegs to tell a caterpillar from a sawfly grub, which feeds in a similar way but needs different controls.

Root and stem pests

These pests feed out of sight in the soil or inside stems. The plant may wilt, stunt or die before anything shows on the surface. Top growth can look sound until you lift the plant or slit the stem and find the maggot, grub or gall. Newly broken ground and beds where the same crop returns year after year often carry more of them, which is why rotation and clean transplants help.

Slugs and larger animals

Larger pests usually leave clearer signs. Slugs and snails feed at night on soft growth near the ground and leave slime trails. Birds and mammals take whole rows in daylight or overnight, leaving torn leaves, droppings and grazed stems. A suitable barrier, whether netting, mesh or a fence, protects the crop more reliably than anything scattered on the ground.

Keeping pests off your vegetables

Preventing damage is easier than reacting to it. The same handful of habits work against many of the pests above. None depends on a spray, and together they usually achieve more than any single product.

Move the crop families around

Many pests specialise in one family of plants and build up in soil where that family grows year after year. Move each group, the brassicas, the roots, the onions and the legumes, to a fresh bed on a three or four year cycle, and keep a simple plan of what grew where. Nematodes, cabbage root fly and flea beetle all decline when their host crop moves and their eggs or grubs hatch without food.

Cover vulnerable crops before the pest arrives

Fine insect mesh and horticultural fleece keep flying and jumping pests off a crop by excluding them. Put covers on before the plants are at risk rather than after damage starts. Mesh stops carrot fly, flea beetle, cabbage white butterflies, root flies and pigeons where the gauge is fine enough and the edges are weighted down to the soil. Cover cucurbits until they flower, then open them for a few hours so bees can reach the blooms.

Feed the predators that hunt them

Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverfly larvae, ground beetles, birds and tiny parasitic wasps eat or parasitise large numbers of aphids, caterpillars and grubs. A plot with flowers for nectar, a patch of rough cover and a little water supports more of them than a bare plot. A broad-spectrum insecticide kills these predators along with the pest and often leaves you worse off, so keep any spray for a last resort.

Keep the soil and the plants strong

A plant growing steadily in living, well-fed soil tolerates more pest damage than a struggling plant. Work in garden compost or well-rotted manure, mulch to hold moisture and feed soil life, and disturb the ground only when you need to. Steady growth with no drought checks helps more than most treatments applied after damage is under way.

Walk the rows and pick off early

Look under the leaves and along the stems two or three times a week through the growing season. An egg batch, a first aphid colony or a young caterpillar is quick to deal with while it is small and confined to a leaf or two. Rub it out, pick it off, or cut away the leaf it sits on. Nearly every pest here is easier to stop early than to clear once it has spread across the bed.

Treat a spray as the last resort

Use a spray only when a pest is doing real harm and gentler controls have not worked, and choose the narrowest product you can. A broad-spectrum insecticide kills the ladybirds, hoverflies and wasps that keep other pests down, so a plot can end up with a worse problem than the one you sprayed for. Check what your own country still permits, since approvals differ and change. Most vegetable pests can be managed through a season without a spray.

Identify the pest before treating it. A lot of alarming damage is harmless or already over. Decide whether it is doing enough harm to need action. Start with prevention and with physical or biological controls, and keep sprays for the last resort, because broad sprays kill the predators you want to keep. The same order of steps works whether you garden in Auckland, Ontario or Phoenix.

Common questions

What are the most common vegetable pests?
Aphids, slugs and snails, caterpillars and flea beetles occur on vegetable plots in many regions and account for much of the damage. Which others matter depends on where you garden. A North American plot may also have Colorado potato beetle, squash vine borer, cucumber beetle and tomato hornworm, while a European or African plot is more likely to have carrot fly, cabbage root fly and local caterpillars. Aphids, slugs, caterpillars and flea beetles are the core group many growers meet.
How do I keep pests off my vegetables without pesticides?
Most vegetable pests can be handled without a spray. Cover vulnerable crops with fine mesh or fleece before the pest arrives, rotate the crop families each year so soil pests lose their host, and encourage the ladybirds, birds and parasitic wasps that hunt pests by growing flowers and leaving a little cover. Walk the rows often and rub out egg batches and young colonies by hand. Keep plants growing strongly in good soil, since a healthy plant tolerates more damage than a weak one.
How do I tell which pest is eating holes in my leaves?
Look at the shape of the holes and what is left behind. Small round pits peppered across seedling leaves are flea beetles; ragged holes with dark frass and green caterpillars underneath are cabbage whites or their relatives; smooth-edged holes with silvery slime trails are slugs and snails. Leaves eaten to a lacy skeleton between the veins point to a beetle such as Mexican bean beetle. Turn a leaf over and check the undersides, where many of these pests feed and hide.
Which pests attack vegetable roots out of sight?
Several feed below ground and show only as wilting or stunting above it. Carrot fly maggots tunnel rust-brown lines through carrots and parsnips; cabbage root fly maggots eat the roots off young brassicas so they pull straight out; wireworms bore clean holes into potatoes; and root-knot nematodes swell roots into beaded galls. Root aphids cluster on the roots under a white waxy powder and flag the plant in the heat. Lift a failing plant and check its roots before you blame anything above ground.

Sources

Compiled from these authorities. Each linked problem page carries its own sources as well.

Reviewed by Matthew Moughtin

Last reviewed

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