Houseplant
Showy Stonecrop
Hylotelephium spectabile
Also known as Ice Plant, Butterfly Stonecrop, Sedum spectabile
How to grow Hylotelephium spectabile, the showy stonecrop or ice plant, a hardy border succulent whose flat autumn flower plates attract bees and butterflies.

At a glance
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Water
- When the top of the soil has dried; drought-tolerant once established
- Light
- Full sun to bright light
- Temperature
- Hardy; tolerates frost outdoors
- Humidity
- Low to average
- Hardiness
- USDA 3-9, RHS H7, hardy to -30 C
- Type
- Deciduous herbaceous succulent perennial
- Height
- 30 to 50 cm
- Native to
- China, Korea
A hardy border succulent from China and Korea, dying back to the ground each winter and returning in spring, and tough enough to survive hard frost, well below minus 20 deg C. Unlike the tender succulents it is a fully hardy plant, wanting full sun and free-draining soil that is not too rich, and it rots only where the ground stays cold and wet through winter.
Hardiness zones describe winter cold alone. Summer heat, humidity, rainfall and the length of the growing season decide as much, so treat the range as the outer limit rather than as a recommendation.
Not known to be toxic
A safe plant to grow around pets and children. Sedum and its relatives are not listed as toxic by the ASPCA, and showy stonecrop carries no harmful compound; some sedums are even eaten in small amounts as a wild green. A pet that nibbles the fleshy leaves is unlikely to come to serious harm beyond a possible mild stomach upset, so it can be grown freely in a family garden or on a sunny sill.
Sources: ASPCA toxic and non-toxic plants, RHS potentially harmful garden plants
About
Hylotelephium spectabile is useful in early autumn, when many border plants are past their best. Wide, level heads of tiny pink flowers open at the top of stout grey stems and attract bees, hoverflies and late butterflies. Gardeners call it the ice plant for the frosted, blue-grey cast of its leaves, and it is worth growing because it feeds pollinators after many summer flowers have faded.
It dies back to a squat crown every winter, survives hard frost well below minus 20 deg C underground, and pushes up a fresh clump each spring. Its needs are simple: sun, drainage and a lean diet. Waterlogged winter ground is the main problem, so a sharp root run matters far more than feeding.
Appearance and character
The leaves are broad, flat and thick, oval with a coarsely toothed edge, and coated in a pale waxy bloom that gives the whole plant its cool blue-grey colouring. They clasp the stems in neat pairs or threes, packed closely enough to hide the stem itself.
The clump is upright and rounded, reaching roughly thirty to fifty centimetres. Every stem ends in a flower head, so the top of the clump sits almost level.
Those heads are the main feature: broad flattened plates built from hundreds of small five-petalled flowers, most often a clear rose pink, though selections run from near-white to deep carmine. They open from late summer into autumn, draw insects on warm days, then age to coppery rust and stand as dried heads well into the cold.
Where it is from
Hylotelephium spectabile is native to the rocky hill country of China and Korea, growing in open, sunny ground with quick drainage and a strongly seasonal climate, warm through the growing months and hard-frozen in winter. It survives the cold as a dormant crown, using reserves stored in its fleshy leaves and roots.
That origin explains its garden needs. It thrives in full exposure, tolerates drought once its roots are down, and needs a cold rest. Rich feeding and standing winter wet are the conditions to avoid, since both leave it soft, splayed and prone to rot.
How it grows
The plant follows a tidy annual rhythm. Rosettes of shoots break from the crown in spring, build into a leafy dome through summer, flower late in the season, then collapse to the dormant crown as frost arrives. Left uncut, the rusty seed heads hold their shape into winter.
Grow it in gritty, free-draining soil or a lean compost in full sun, whether in a border, a trough or a pot. Water it while it settles, after which rain will usually be enough. A clump grown too lush tends to flop open at the centre. Shortening the stems by a third in early summer, the trick gardeners call the Chelsea chop, produces a shorter, denser clump. Lift and divide a tired clump every few years to keep it vigorous.
Through the seasons
Spring sends up fresh rosettes from the crown. Cut away last year’s dead stems and divide an overgrown clump.
Summer builds the grey leafy dome; water only in drought, hold back the feed, and shorten the stems in early summer if they threaten to sprawl.
Autumn brings the flat pink flower heads and the most insect activity. Leave them to age to bronze.
Winter takes it back to a dormant crown underground. Leave the dried heads for structure or clear them away.
Care difficulty
Showy stonecrop is one of the more forgiving border plants. It needs only sun and a free-draining root run to grow, flower and return each year. It goes wrong in two main ways. Overfeeding or shade makes the stems flop apart at the centre, and a crown left cold and wet all winter can rot. Grow it lean and sunny and it needs little attention.
Watering
A newly planted clump needs watering until it establishes, after which rainfall is usually enough in open ground and only a long drought calls for more. The leaves store enough water to carry the plant through dry weeks without wilting.
In a pot, water once the surface has dried and let the container drain fully, then cut right back through the dormant winter. Wet soil around a resting crown is what rots it, so free drainage matters most in the cold, wet months.
Warning signs, diseases and pests
Stems that splay and fall open around a bare centre usually mean the plant is too well fed, too shaded or too wet. Move it into leaner, sunnier ground, or shorten the clump by a third in early summer so it regrows shorter and firmer.
A crown that rots over winter has sat cold and sodden, most often in heavy soil or an ill-drained pot; improve the drainage and keep it drier in the cold. Vine weevil grubs sometimes chew the roots of a potted plant, so tip out and check any specimen that wilts for no obvious reason. Powdery mildew can grey the leaves in a hot, still, crowded spot, though open air and sun keep it at bay.
Growing environment
Full sun gives it sturdy upright stems and the fullest flowering, while shade brings soft, floppy growth and few flowers. Warm to cool, airy conditions suit it, and it needs no extra humidity.
Plant it in lean, gritty, free-draining soil or compost, in a sunny border, trough or pot. It fares far better outdoors than as a permanent indoor plant, because it depends on a cold winter rest, and a container specimen is best stood outside where it will not sit sodden.
Feeding
Feed little, or not at all. Poor soil gives the firmest, most upright growth and the best flowering, whereas a generous diet makes the stems lax and reduces flowering. A single light feed in spring is the most it needs.
A potted plant benefits more from fresh gritty compost every couple of years than from any fertiliser, and nothing should be given through autumn or winter.
Troubleshooting
The stems have flopped open in the middle. Too rich, too shaded or too wet. Move it into lean, sunny ground and shorten the clump by a third in early summer to make it bushier.
It hardly flowered. Shade or overfeeding, which favours leaf over bloom. Give it full sun and stop feeding.
The crown rotted over winter. Cold, standing wet around the dormant plant. Improve the drainage, and keep a pot dry and sheltered from winter rain.
Can I keep it indoors all year? It does best outdoors, since it needs a cold dormancy; a pot plant should winter somewhere cold instead of in a heated room.
Is it safe around pets? Yes. Sedum and its kin are not listed as toxic, so the showy stonecrop is safe around cats, dogs and children.
Showy Stonecrop problem guides
Not sure what is wrong? See the common houseplant pests guide.