Disorder
Waterlogging
Also called Winter wet, Poor drainage, Standing water
Yellow leaves, wilting on wet ground and plants dying over winter. Why waterlogged roots suffocate rather than drown, and what to do about a garden that lies wet.
At a glance
- Type
- Disorder
- Cause
- Growing conditions
- Severity
- Can kill the plant
- Affects
- Garden plants, Herbs and edibles
- Active
- All year
What you are seeing
- Water standing on the surface for hours or days after rain
- Leaves yellowing and dropping while the ground is saturated
- Plants wilting on wet soil, which is the signal that the roots have failed
- Soft dark rotted roots, with the outer layer sliding off between finger and thumb
- Bark at the base of a shrub or tree darkening, sinking or splitting
- Grey or blue-grey soil with a sour, eggy smell when dug
- Mediterranean shrubs dying over the winter rather than in the summer
Before you treat anything
Standing water in a garden is a drowning risk to small children and a breeding site for mosquitoes. Where a pond or a bog garden is the answer to a wet corner, treat it as a water feature and fence or grille it accordingly.
What you are looking at
Water lies on the surface after rain and takes hours or days to go. The soil is heavy and sticky when wet and sets like concrete when dry. Dig into it and it is grey or blue-grey rather than brown, and it smells sour.
The plants growing in it yellow, drop their leaves, and wilt. The wilting is the part that confuses people, because it looks like drought and happens on soil that is soaking.
Losses tend to arrive in winter rather than summer. A lavender that came through August is dead in February, and a young tree planted in November never comes into leaf.
Roots suffocate rather than drown
Roots need oxygen. They respire, exactly as leaves and animals do, and they take that oxygen from the air spaces between soil particles.
Water fills those spaces. In a normal soil it drains through and air follows it down. In a waterlogged one it stays, the oxygen in it is used up within a day or two, and the roots begin to die.
Dead roots cannot take up water. That is why a waterlogged plant wilts: the soil is saturated and the plant is unable to drink from it. It is also why feeding a yellowing plant on wet ground achieves nothing, since the nitrogen is there and the roots cannot fetch it.
Then the secondary damage arrives. Phytophthora and the other water moulds thrive in saturated soil, and they finish off roots that were already failing. By the time anybody investigates, the plant has root rot and the underlying cause has been forgotten.
What to do about it
Dig a hole 60 cm deep in the worst spot in winter and see how long water stands in it. That tells you whether you have a drainage problem or a wet fortnight.
Watch where water arrives during heavy rain. A downpipe, a path or a hollow is often the whole explanation and is fixable in an afternoon.
Stay off the soil when it is wet, and use boards where you must cross.
Mulch with compost and well-rotted manure every year and let the worms work it in. On clay this is the long answer and it does work.
Break through a compacted pan once, then stop digging and mulch instead.
Aerate a wet lawn in autumn and brush sharp sand into the holes.
Plant on mounds or in raised beds rather than in dug holes, and never backfill a hole in clay with compost.
Choose plants for wet ground where the ground is wet. Dogwood, willow, alder, birch, astilbe, hosta, iris and primula are a good garden by any standard.
Give a drowned plant time, shade and no feed, and cut some top growth back to match the roots it has left.
What it gets mistaken for
Drought produces identical wilting on soil that is dry, which one finger settles.
Root rot is the usual consequence rather than a separate diagnosis, and treating the rot without fixing the drainage repeats the loss.
Nitrogen shortage yellows older leaves on a plant growing in reasonable soil, and it responds to a feed within a fortnight.
Honey fungus kills from the base with white sheets under the bark and black bootlaces in the soil, and it is often blamed for deaths that were drowning.
Frost damage on a plant in wet ground can look like winter wet, and the difference is that frost damage is confined to the growth exposed on the night it happened.
What to do, in order
-
Start here
Prevention, and the changes that stop the problem returning. Most of these pages should end at this tier.
- Find out what is happening underground
- Dig a hole 60 cm deep in the worst spot in winter and watch it. Water standing in it for more than a day means a drainage problem rather than a wet week. Grey or blue-grey soil with a sour smell is soil that has been without oxygen long enough to change chemically, and that is a diagnosis rather than an impression.
- Stop walking on wet soil
- Compaction is the commonest cause of a garden that lies wet, and treading or barrowing over saturated ground makes it worse every time. Keep off beds in winter, use boards where you must cross, and give the lawn a rest in a wet spell.
- Add organic matter, year after year
- Compost and well-rotted manure open a heavy soil up and improve its structure so water moves through rather than sitting on top. This is slow, it is cumulative, and on clay it is the single most useful thing anyone does. Spread it as a mulch and let the worms take it down.
- Break up a compacted pan
- Where a hard layer has formed at spade depth, water cannot get past it. Fork or double-dig through it once, then keep off the ground and mulch rather than digging every year.
- Plant for the conditions you have
- Lavender, rosemary, thyme and most silver-leaved shrubs die in winter wet however carefully they are planted. Dogwood, willow, alder, birch, astilbe, hosta, iris, primula and ligularia all thrive in it. Choosing for the ground is more effective and far cheaper than fighting it.
- Raise the planting rather than sinking it
- Raised beds, mounds and ridges lift the roots above the water table. A tree planted on a slight mound on wet ground establishes where the same tree in a dug hole sits in a sump. Never dig a deep hole in clay and backfill with compost, which makes a bucket.
-
Then reach for a barrier
Netting, hand removal and water. Nothing here harms anything except the target.
- Aerate a waterlogged lawn
- Hollow tine aeration in autumn, with the cores removed and sharp sand brushed into the holes, gets air and water down through a compacted sward. Repeat annually on ground that lies wet.
- Deal with the water rather than the plant, where you can
- A blocked land drain, a downpipe discharging into a border, a path that sheds water into a bed, or a shallow hollow with nowhere to go are all fixable causes. Watch where the water arrives during heavy rain, which is more informative than any amount of digging.
- Give a drowned plant a chance to recover
- Once the ground drains, keep the plant unstressed. Do not feed it while the roots are damaged, shade a small one in strong sun, and cut back some top growth to balance the roots it has lost. Some come back.
Plants this turns up on
Guides that name it among the problems to watch for. The list is the plants it is characteristic of rather than everything it will feed on.